Dear Dirty Dozen Team Member,
We hope this email, as always, finds you well.
Our March 2024 Galápagos expedition has just returned, and what a trip they had! A team of seven CCR divers, spearheaded by #teamdd expedition leaders, Gillian and Eduardo, embarked on an epic expedition to discover the awesome marine life of these prehistoric islands.
Trip Report by Gillian Flaherty - Expedition Leader
Experiencing the Galápagos is an incredible adventure and one I’ve been fortunate enough to experience on open circuit. But imagine connecting with some of the ocean’s most unique marine life on a rebreather!
And just think how this experience is amplified when the entire dive group, including guides, is on closed circuit! This is what sets our extremely rare, Dirty Dozen CCR-only trips apart from other Galápagos expeditions.
I landed in San Cristobal and managed to grab a few hours of kip before embarking mid-morning. We had plenty of time for boat and safety briefings and equipment set-up before a late afternoon check-dive.
Our home for the next 11 days would be the beautifully appointed M/V Calipso liveaboard. With modern cabins boasting wall-to-wall windows, a large saloon area, and even a jacuzzi, I knew our group would be very comfortable onboard.
But what made the M/V Calipso stand out for me was the caliber of her crew. Every staff member was friendly and helpful, making us feel welcome and cared for from day one. The food was exceptional and the dive-deck support was seamless, both vital components of a successful dive trip!
MOLA MONSTERS OF THE DEEP
Our first few days were spent on the western side of the archipelago, diving the stunning walls and rocky plateaus of Isabella and Fernandina Islands. Here, upwellings of the deep Cromwell Current hit the far edge of the archipelago bringing cold, nutrient-rich water that supports a wealth of weird and wonderful creatures.
Close encounter with CCR Guide Javier in 2023 - Photo by Marissa Eckert.
Cousins of the Mola mola or ocean sunfish, Mola alexandrini could be mistaken for an extraterrestrial visitor. These strangely flattened giants visit cleaning stations along the edge of Isabella Island where we were treated to numerous encounters during our two dives there. They sidled past with surprising grace, and I can only assume that being bubble-free we avoided spooking them to achieve some awesomely close encounters.
We were treated to some incredibly close encounters with ocean sunfish - Photo by Jonathan Saenz.
WOLF AND DARWIN STEAL THE SHOW
After several days of warm-up diving (or should I say, cool-down diving), we transited north overnight towards the highlight of our trip - Wolf and Darwin Islands. These isolated outcrops at the very northern reaches of the Galápagos chain are world-famous shark diving spots.
Watching the wild action at Wolf!
My favorite area, and one I could dive time and again, was the Theatre. This natural bowl at the edge of the reef was the perfect location to hang out and watch for pelagic action in the blue.
However, this site is also subject to the infamous Galapagos currents that threaten to tear your loop out of your mouth and your mask off your face! The trick is to hunker down behind a large boulder, cling on to barnacles with one hand, and have the other hand ready on your camera for the big stuff. And it doesn’t take long to appear!
We lost track of the number of hammerheads on show, sometimes schooling in their dozens in the deep water, at other times swimming right over our heads across the reef. We were treated to Galapagos and tiger sharks, eagle, mobula, and devil rays, and huge numbers of schooling pompano, salema, and jack.
CABO MARSHALL FINALE
After an exceptional five days at Wolf and Darwin, we bid farewell to the pelagics and headed back south to Cabo Marshall on the eastern side of Isabella Island. In an area known as Manta City, we did our final dives with the hope of encountering oceanic mantas feeding close to the reef.
But it was not our lucky day! Despite the lack of rays, we enjoyed two fascinating explorations of the volcanic coastline, winding through lava channels past groups of snoozing white tips, dozing turtles, and countless moray eels.
All too soon we were back in San Cristobal, our 10-night epic sadly drawing to a close.
WE’LL BE BACK SOON
From the best boat to the best guides, watch our video from Galápagos to see the team and expedition vessel in action!
JOIN US IN THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
Dirty Dozen Expeditions is running 8-Day Galápagos expeditions in 2025 and 2026. And as if the destination itself is not exciting enough, special guest, Jill Heinerth, is joining the team for both an open-circuit recreational and a closed-circuit expedition in 2026.
Click on the buttons below to find out more and reserve your spot!
That’s a wrap from us this week! Thanks, Gill, for a great trip report!
We hope you have some great plans coming up this summer and we look forward to seeing you all above and underwater soon. Please don’t forget, if you ever feel lonely, we are always here to chat Dirty.
Best,
Aron & The Dirty Dozen Team